288
There are few boat maintenance topics that elicit such passionate debate as finishing techniques, and the tools required to master them. With so many self-proclaimed “experts” on the subject—and so many different “expert” opinions—filtering out the practical advice from that of the fanatics can be challenging for those who merely want to get the job done or those new to marine coatings.
With that in mind, we decided to make the most of our head-to-head topside-paint test (PS, August 2009), and took the opportunity to evaluate a variety of natural-bristle brushes. PS tried out a half-dozen different paint brushes while applying multiple coats of two-part epoxy primer and two-part linear polyurethane (LPU) to the topsides of Jelly, our Catalina 22 project boat. Nearly two years later, the brushes have seen plenty of action and testers have reached their own conclusions of which brush is the best—and most practical—tool for the job.
414
What We Tested
Practical Sailor tested six 2- to 3-inch, natural-bristle brushes marketed for use with oil-based coatings. Because we planned to test the brushes with LPU paints, foam brushes were not included. The test brushes covered a range of bristle types and shapes, handle styles, and prices, representing those most often found in chandleries and hardware stores.
We tested the brushes using LPUs from Interlux (www.yachtpaint.com) and Epifanes (www.epifanes.com), so we sought the companies’ recommendations on brushes. Interlux Assistant Marketing Manager Jim Seidel suggested we use a good-quality badger-hair or China-bristle brush; he specifically recommended Red Tree Industries and Wooster brands.
Red Tree Industries (www.redtreeind.com), based in California, manufactures the Seafit Flagship line of badger-hair brushes for West Marine; we tested the 2-inch Flagship. From the Ohio-based Wooster Brush Co., which has been making paint supplies since 1851, we tested a white-China bristle brush.
At Epifanes’ suggestion, we used Omega Lily’s 2½-inch, ox-bristle brush, which is manufactured by the Italy-based Omega but is sold through the Epifanes website (www.epifanes.com) and other chandleries.
To round out the test field, we threw in some typical hardware-store brushes from Ace Hardware, Benjamin Moore Paints, and Purdy Professional Painting Tools. The Ace Pro Series black-China brush we tested has been discontinued, but it’s a good example of a cheap, natural-bristle brush.
Just before this report went to press, Practical Sailor received a set of China-bristle brushes from Robert Larson Co. (www.rlarson.com). We plan to test the brushes, imported from France, on some upcoming Jelly projects, so look for that report in a future issue.
How We Tested
Before dunking the test brushes in paint for our field tests, we first evaluated them on what we consider “buyer’s checklist” criteria. Taking the time to check a few brush characteristics in the store can save you from headaches in the boatyard. See “Brush Basics” on page 27 for more on what to shop for.
The first test a brush must pass is the shedding test. If bristles come out of the ferrule easily, leave the brush at the store. To test for this, we followed boat-maintenance guru Don Casey’s tip in “Sailboat Refinishing”: We slapped the brush across the heels of our hands, then gave a few bristles a pull. These ratings, listed in the Value Guide on page 28, also take into consideration whether the brushes showed a tendency to shed during use.
Testers examined the brush bristles, looking for smooth, straight hairs with split (flagged) ends. We also noted the ferrule’s metal quality; how the bristles were set in the base; and how ergonomic the handle was.
To get an idea of bristle quality, testers pushed the brushes against our palms, fanning the bristles and noting whether they regained their shape or there were any noticeable gaps in the bristles. All of the test brushes’ ferrules were magnetic, hinting that they may not resist corrosion well. Interestingly, the least magnetic was the Benjamin Moore, which was the only ferrule showing rust after two years of use and storage.
Field testing included applying the primer and LPU paints to Jelly’s fiberglass hull. Testers used the roll-and-tip method, so the brushes were used to smooth the paint after it was rolled on. We also used the brushes to apply house paint to a fiberglass test panel. We continued to use—and painstakingly clean—the brushes for various projects over the following years to see how well they stood up to the test of time.
Epifanes / Omega Lily
The most expensive brush in the test, the $30, 2½-inch Omega Lily is a top-of-the-line brush with an oval head of natural Chinese ox bristles set in epoxy and a nickel-plated-steel ferrule. It’s designed for one- and two-part coatings.
The maker touts the brush’s individually split bristles and hand-chiseled edge. Testers noted that the Omega had the most pronounced chisel tip, which laid the paint on smoothly and uniformly. Its oval shape was better than the rectangular brushes at slowly releasing paint onto the fiberglass. The shape also meant more bristles for the buck: The brush head was about a quarter-inch thicker than that of the rectangular brushes, and the bristles were notably shorter, which allowed testers better control when laying on coatings with high-solids content.
While testers preferred the Omega’s 2½-inch size over the 2- and 3-inch brushes tested, they weren’t too keen on the Omega’s tapered, round handle. The beaver-tail-style handles, in our opinion, are more ergonomic. However, the Omega handle fits more easily into a brush spinner for cleaning. It was lightly finished hardwood, making it easier to clean and giving it sufficient heft; the use of hardwood is also usually an indicator of good brush quality.
Bottom line: The Omega Lily’s thick, oval brush and its hand-chiseled tip resulted in superior performance. This was the brush testers chose to use for the final LPU coats on Jelly.
Seafit Flagship
West Marine’s Seafit 2-inch Flagship brush was the only badger-hair brush we tested. It’s generally accepted that badger brushes are a step above China-bristle brushes when it comes to applying fine finishes, but they too can vary in quality.
The Flagship bristles are set in an oblong, stainless ferrule, and its chiseled tip is “hand formed to preserve flagged tips.” The brush’s paint capacity was Good, as was its resistance to shedding and performance in the paint tests.
The brush’s lightly finished, pencil-style round handle was more comfortable in the hand than the Omega’s, but testers rated its ergonomics a notch below the beaver-tail handles. Its 2-inch size was testers’ least favorite for tipping out topside paint, but West Marine does offer the brush in the 3-inch size.
At $17, the Flagship brush was the second most expensive brush we tested.
Bottom line: The Seafit Flagship brushes are a good compromise between quality and price.
Wooster
We tested the 3-inch Wooster white-China bristle with chiseled edge and an oblong, brass-plated steel ferrule. The long-haired brush managed across-the-board Good ratings. Testers used it to apply several coats of primer and paint with decent results, but it tended to shed more than the Omega during use.
The Wooster featured a plastic beaver-tail handle with a faux wood-grain printed into the plastic that tended to trap dried paint and made it slightly more challenging to clean. With a $10 price tag, the Wooster white China brush was the cheapest one tested.
Bottom line: The Wooster offers average quality at a rock-bottom price. It’s the PS Budget Buy for paint brushes, although we’d not likely use it for varnish application.
Hardware-store brands:
The 2-inch Ace black-China Pro Series brush had a rectangular, low-quality ferrule and a very slightly chiseled tip. The brush, which has since been discontinued, was a poor performer in tests.
Another common hardware-store brush we tested was the 3-inch, oblong, flat-edged, black-China bristle from Benjamin Moore. Chiseled edges are preferred for topside painting for a reason: The cut allows users to load up the brush with paint and encourages a slow release of the paint. The flat-edged Benjamin Moore brush was lackluster in these areas.
The best of the hardware-store brands we tested, the 3-inch, natural, white-China bristle Purdy was the only one guaranteed against defects in workmanship and materials. Handmade in Portland, Ore., the Purdy brush has an oblong shape and a flat tip, which affected its performance with LPU paint.
Bottom line: The Purdy brush is a contender for those not seeking perfection, but given the time and money that go into a topside paint job, we wouldn’t recommend using an inferior brush.
Conclusion
Choosing the right brush for a marine-coatings applications will depend on the job at hand, the budget, and the user’s preferences. Buying a high-quality brush is an investment: You’re not just committing financially, but you also must be willing to make the time commitment required to maintain the brush. A well-cared-for, quality brush can offer satisfying results for many years.
If you’re looking for a brush for topside or deck painting, we recommend an above-average or top-quality brush. Laying on LPU by brush or rolling-and-tipping has plenty of inherent headaches, so why add to the frustration by using an inferior brush that’s likely to shed hairs or lacks sufficient paint capacity?
Our top pick was the Omega Lily oval brush. We recommend it for applying high-solids varnishes and topside paint. If a $30 brush doesn’t fit your budget, a 3-inch Seafit or Wooster will provide adequate results. Just be sure to clean stray hairs from the ferrule before each use.
For topside-painting tips, check out the February 2011, August 2008, and August 2009 issues. Look for brightwork tips with this article at www.practical-sailor.com.
