On the small island of Bolga in northern Norway, 17 nm north of the Arctic Circle, a 40-ft. catamaran lies at a quay. It is blowing 36 to 47 knots while the rain whips against the windows. Ellen and Birger (both 57) take a break in their work as beach cleaners, while the first autumn gale passes. Ellen is not a fan of the rain because it makes the rocks and stones slippery, slowing their progress. Since 2017, the couple has cleared marine waste in the outer archipelago in Nordland. They were amazed by the amount of plastic on the shore and started by cleaning a little each time they anchored in an area on their 32-ft. Bavaria.
Seabirds entangled in old fishing gear became a common sight for the polar sailors, which gave them an extra drive to clean up. Gradually, the amount of rubbish was cleared considerably. They were able to clear 21 metric tons (46,297 pounds) of marine debris in their spare time. They eventually turned their idea of cleaning beaches full-time into reality. Together with the organization In The Same Boat and a municipal outdoor council, they submitted a cost estimate for a tender issued by a Norwegian environmental fund Handelens Miljøfond. The mission was called “Clean Up In Time.” When the assignment was approved in autumn 2021, Ellen and Birger resigned from their jobs on land.
They upgraded to a Fontaine Pajot Lavezzi with the Norse name Haftor, which is almost 20 years old, but well kept. Haftor’s low draft makes her great for anchoring in shallow areas. Solar cells and a wind generator allow them to be off grid for longer periods. Normally, they spend three to four weeks at anchor before they have to sail in for food and water supplies.
ANCHORING IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
Haftor sports 328 feet of chain and a 25-kg Vulcan anchor. In autumn and early spring, when the weather is unstable with polar low-pressure systems constantly passing through, they use four pieces of ¾-in. floating rope, 360-ft.-long each. They fasten the ropes with lifting straps around large rocks. Haftor hangs in the middle of a cross, like a spider. This allows the sailors to sleep well when darkness falls.
They study maps and aerial photographs carefully before choosing an anchorage. Then they scan the area for depth. Binoculars help them find stones large enough for an anchor line—they must be at least half a cubic meter (over one metric ton) and lie stable in the terrain. Sometimes they put the lifting straps over bedrock if they have the right shape. Although there aren’t many trees, there is a lot of stones, thankfully. Many of the old anchor bolts from the sailing ship era are still intact and can also be used. These are marked on the sea chart and are located in sheltered areas.
Ellen and Birger always set the anchor first, then the first shore rope upwind. The floating ropes are stored in a fishing tub, which simplifies laying. The lifting straps are certified for lifting two metric tons (4,409 lb.) and are 14 meters long (46 feet). They are placed in a snare over stone for minimum movement and chafing. The straps withstand a lot and usually last two seasons before they need to be replaced. If necessary, they add more straps to secure Haftor. The land rope is attached with a sheet bend to the lifting strap, the end is slipped into the cord parts. Then they turn the stern in to the south to get as much light as possible in the solar panels.
RUGGED GEAR FOR WILD LANDSCAPES
Their small dinghy lets them land on tiny islands. When swells roll in, they drag the dinghy up the shore so that it is not damaged. It’s all in a day’s work. They have tried out different types of dinghies and ended up with Highfield, which is a rib with an aluminum hull that is robust and safe. The aluminum hull withstands being dragged up the rock many times a day. For the cleanup process, Ellen and Birger put the trash plastic in sacks, which then are put in a depot. In the Same Boat collects the sacks with their work boats, then the trash is transported to the nearest public recycling facility for further treatment.
Since becoming professional beach cleaners in 2022, they have collected 131 metric tons (288,806 pounds) of marine plastic from the islands of Nordland. They specialize in picking up debris in vulnerable areas and often clean nature reserves as well.
BALANCING SEA LIFE WITH LAND LIFE
Haftor and crew clean up plastic on the beach for nine months a year, until snow and frost settle down, making clearing impossible. Birgen and Ellen do maintenance on the boat and visit family. They also spend a lot of their time informing the public about the problem of plastic pollution via social media and in-person lectures. They have lived together in a sailboat for seven years and want many years of seawater under the keel. The home port is the town of Bodø, 56 nm north of the Arctic Circle. Their home harbor is well sheltered from the winter storms and the sailors are close to family and friends. They also enjoy a bit of urban life. Bodø is 2024’s European Capital of Culture—it also has good transportation via a ferry, fast boat, train and airport, all within the city limits.
Ellen says it’s a rough job, but they enjoy this life. They get to sail a lot, fish for food, and free dive for crab and scallops. In the summer season, the sun never sets and the view towards the mountains inland is spectacular. They often see orcas, seals, otters and seabirds. Sometimes the sailors welcome friends and family aboard, who help clean up the sea and shore. When it becomes cold in autumn, the northern lights appear in the northern night sky—Ellen and Birger hold hands while the aurora polaris dances over the mountains, Haftor’s sailing rig and anchor light.
You can find out more about their project via their Facebook page and Instagram.
